Cruise recommendation from Jezera
A TRIP REPORT FROM KARIN AND STEFAN
Saturday, arrival day: Arrival at the ACI Marina Jezera, at about 12:30 p.m. after a very polite welcome by the pitter-Crew we were soon able to move into the Lagoon 42 “Smaragd”.
A quick note: Of course, the boat is not always ready to be taken over so early, unfortunately it happens again and again that crews leave the boats very untidy, my TIP to enable the following crews to start their vacation as early as possible is to take your garbage and everything else you have brought with you when you leave the boat. And what is also important, if you notice that something is technically not in order, please let the service crew know, because the Pitter team always strives to keep everything in the best condition and is grateful for any information to ensure that the yacht is in top condition. The expectations of every charter crew are correspondingly high, and rightly so. This is not meant to be a lecture, we have gotten used to this ourselves and are always happy when the yacht is handed over and returned in no time at all.
After our luggage had been stowed and we had taken over the boat with the yacht supervisor, part of Crew went shopping for groceries.
TIP: There is a Tommy Hypermarket right at the junction of the D121 RD road into the village of Jezera, which offers everything you need at fair prices.
Texts and photos provided by Stefan and Karin – many thanks!
We run out
Around 16:00 it’s time to head out. Today’s destination is the Potkucina buoy field in the beautiful bay to the north-east of Otok Kakan. There is a Caribbean flair here with really cool moorings along the lightly wooded shore. The clearest water is perfect for swimming and snorkeling.
After a sundowner or two on board 😊, we take the dinghy over to the Babalu barbecue bar. Here you are served simple but good food and drink. You have to learn the host’s “joke”, then everything is ok.
Etmal: 12nm
Sunday
After an extensive breakfast on board, we continue on to our destination for today, Otok Žut.
In fine weather with 1016.2 hPa and a good wind from the SE with 9 to 15 knots, we set the gennaker and sail towards the NW towards our destination for the day. As we have perfect wind conditions on this day, we don’t stop for a swim but use the wind to quickly reach our destination for the day.
TIP: if you want to stop for a swim , you can take a short detour to one of Croatia’s rare sandy beaches. Otok Vrgada with a small village, located directly below the bay. But beware: there are a few shallows and a concrete block hidden in the water here, but if you follow the buoys, you’re doing everything right. If you want to have a small drink in between, you will find one directly at the harbor entrance on the right. A nice pub where you can also eat.
We continue with a good wind and soon reach the Pristanisce/Luka Žut buoy field. As we are going to visit Konoba Trabakul in the evening, we don’t moor at a buoy. The restaurant has its own jetty, which can of course be used free of charge if you dine in the restaurant. Electricity and water are not available, but it is still a perfect berth for the night. The restaurant staff are also very happy to help with mooring.
After a relaxing afternoon on board, we enjoy a delicious dinner. Croatian specialties from the grill and equally good Croatian wine complete the vacation feeling.
As I do every morning, midday and evening, I check the various weather reports to make sure I’m always up to date. That way, I can plan the day’s activities and the next day with a clear conscience and for the safety of Crew and the yacht, and also enjoy a relaxed glass of wine in the evening.
TIP: Weather report, in addition to the familiar ones such as Windy or Windfinder. Croatian marine weather report for small crafts in several languages, this corresponds approximately to what is also communicated via Navtex.
The weather forecast predicts a thunderstorm front for the next 2 days which will push from the west across the central Adriatic towards Croatia.
We round off the perfect day with a glass of Wachau Grüner Veltliner from Domäne Wachau.
Etmal: 16nm
Monday
After the usual weather check and the day’s briefing with Crew over an extensive breakfast, the Smaragd is made ready to cast off.
Today’s destination is Otok Rava. Depending on how the weather develops, we will adjust the day’s destination.
We leave our mooring at around 10:00 a.m. and, with a westerly wind of 8 to 12 knots, we don’t set sail this time but sail under engine power. The morning weather forecast confirms the approaching bad weather front, which should reach us around noon.
Around 11:00 a.m. it starts to rain and the wind picks up. So we decide to weather the approaching storm in Sali on Duki Otok. The town harbor of Sali is very well protected, especially from the west. We enter the newly designed and already completed harbor entrance and moor on the left side of the harbor in the town marina. The marineros allow us to moor for 2 hours free of charge. That will be enough for us to weather the storm. We take this as an opportunity to visit a supermarket and get some fresh bread.
After about 3 hours and a thunderstorm front passing through, we continue.
Rava is in sight and we decide to visit the Konoba Villa Rava this evening. After calling ahead and reserving a place, we moor right in front of the restaurant.
Etmal: 19nm
Tuesday
After the daily morning routine, we set sail for Mala Rava and a stop for a swim in the bay of Bribinje.
A small shower passes through on the way, but after a brief interlude it gives way to sunshine. We spend a relaxing day swimming in the bay of Bribinje.
The bay of Bribinje is also located on Dugi Otok and its idyllic setting makes it an absolute tip for a swim or an overnight stay. Unfortunately, the restaurant in the small town was not open.
In the late afternoon, we cast off and sail into the bay of Mala Rava, where there is an ingenious konoba. We moor in the buoy field and reserve a place to have dinner in the Mala Rava trattoria.
TIP: This restaurant is a must for all those who like to eat fish. In this very simple restaurant with an appealing ambience, the senior chef, assisted by his wife and sometimes also by his daughter, serves excellent fresh fish which is grilled directly over charcoal.
Excellent food, with good side dishes at very fair prices.
Wednesday
After a very relaxing night, we enjoy the sunny morning hours and set off at around 09:30 to sail into the Kornati nature reserve. The day’s distance here is planned to be around 20nm.
After the thunderstorm front passed through on the previous days, the weather has now changed to a high phase, unfortunately with too little wind. That’s the suffering of a sailor, one day too much, one day too little, but we take it as it comes. So we start the engines and head south. Back towards the southern tip of Dugi Otok.
TIP: At low speed (max. 1800, we achieve approx. 1.8lit/h/engine and 5.5kn speed over ground with careful engine handling and economical consumption) we approach the next waypoint at the entrance to the Kornati islands.
When we reach the waypoint, we turn starboard into the narrow channel between Dogi Otok and Katina. It is a unique experience to pass through this passage and then immediately head south in the Kornati nature reserve.
We soon reach our destination for the day in perfect weather and sunshine. Today we chose to end the day at Konoba Robinson, which is located in Vrulje Bay on Otok Kornati. This tavern, which we visit again and again, has a good jetty, without water and electricity, but free of charge.
ATTENTION – Catamarans: Under no circumstances should you moor in the furthest corner on the inside, even if the very helpful staff would guide you there. The width of a catamaran allows you to get so close to the shore that the much-cited hand’s breadth of water under the keel is no longer available here at low tide. We ourselves have already seen and heard a cat scraping the bottom.
TIP: If you love traditional Croatian cuisine, this is the place for you. A peka of lamb or fish is excellently prepared and served by very courteous and friendly staff.
Before we enjoy dinner, we take a long swim in the bay, where the water is crystal clear and wonderfully warm.
After a sundowner on board, we enjoy a good glass of Croatian wine.
Etmal: 20nm
Thursday
Today we set off for Zminjak , a small island north of the island of Murter. After the daily routine of weather forecast, breakfast, boat and instrument check, we unfortunately continue under engine again.
Even though the weather apps had promised some wind, unfortunately there wasn’t enough to set sail. But we don’t let this spoil our day and enjoy the beautiful nature reserve.
It is always important to keep a good lookout, because there are some “cookies” in the Kornati islands, as we call the rocks that just peek out of the water. They are difficult to spot, especially against the light, and are just waiting to be overlooked.
Along the island of Kornati, past Otok Piškera and Otok Lavsa, we turn off backboards above the island of Vela Smokvica towards Murter and Zminjak.
We continue in a northerly direction until we reach the passage between the island of Murter and Zminjak. As we have plenty of time, we head for the Vela Luka anchorage directly behind Rt Ovnija to swim and enjoy an afternoon snack in the La Spuž restaurant. If you are a fan of mussels, this is the right place to eat them, served in a white wine sauce with fresh white bread.
In the early evening, we continue our journey to Konoba Zminjak. Here you can either moor in the buoy field or directly at the restaurant’s jetty. When mooring at the jetty, the restaurant staff (usually the boss himself) are ready to help. As a rule, you will also be asked what you would like to eat in the evening. You can, but don’t have to, make your choice known. However, it is an advantage if you have a larger Crew or if the preparation of the dishes takes more time. FOR EXAMPLE: Peka – fish peka is excellent here.
Etmal: 23nm
Friday
Our last sailing day
Today’s destination is Jezera on Murter, so it’s time for the daily weather check and another delicious breakfast.
It’s like magic, in the last 3 days the high has stabilized to such an extent that, with a relatively constant air pressure of around 1017 hPA, there’s not a breath of wind. What the heck, we’re having fun and still enjoying the flair of this vacation.
We anchor for lunch in Podvrške Bay (north-west of Otok Murter) on the way home to enjoy another long swim and a small lunch.
After entering the marina, we drive to the petrol station, which is located directly in the harbor. Although it is located quite far back, it is still easy to reach and has plenty of space for maneuvering. As the ACI Marina and the Pitter Yachting site are not too big, there are only short waiting times here, if any at all.
We end the trip, after mooring with the help of the Pitter-Crew, with a mooring beer or two… 😉
TIP: We always like to have our last evening meal at Konoba Denis, where not only is the grilled food very good, but the chef is also a very friendly and good German-speaking host. He always serves his “favorite” guests a little “antibiotic” – a glass of homemade brandy.
Etmal: 15nm
Jezera on Murter
The Jezera base on Murter is very well located, from here you can reach all the important destinations to the north and south in a manageable distance. You really are in the center of the central Adriatic here. The marina is very easy to reach by car, and there are plenty of parking spaces available – also very close to the jetties. The sanitary facilities are new and always well maintained. The small village also has plenty of good restaurants and several shops. There is a Tommy hypermarket right at the entrance to the village. A boat filling station, which can also be used for cars, is located directly in the harbor and thus complements the location perfectly. What is also not insignificant: directly behind the marina, immediately after the harbor exit, there is a pebble beach, which is very easy to reach on foot from the berth.
Summary
After the professional handover (and subsequent return) of the Lagoon 42 “Smaragd”, we had a very exciting and fulfilling week of sailing, even if the weather was a bit mixed in the first few days. After that we experienced Croatia as we have known it for years, clean sea (with very few exceptions), beautiful islands, very nice hosts and wonderful weather. It always depends on your own Crew attitude and equipment how you approach and ultimately experience a sailing trip.
So here’s my last tip: “Take it easy and don’t stress, then everything will be fine”.
Best regards, Karin & Stefan – also on this trip: Christine and Sepp
Lagoon 42 “Emerald”
The catamaran Lagoon 42 “Smaragd” (built in 2020) is located at the Pitter Yachtcharter base in ACI Marina Jezera, Croatia, and can accommodate up to 12 people in 4+2 cabins with 4 bathrooms.
Equipped with a battened mainsail, self-tacking jib, bimini top, autopilot and GPS chart plotter in the cockpit, she ensures easy handling and comfort. Special highlights such as cockpit cushions, solar panel and inverter guarantee additional luxury.
Ideal for sailing groups who value modern equipment and relaxed cruising.
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